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AKU AMBASSADORS ON EXPEDITION TO KYRGYZSTAN

A MOUNTAINEERING ADVENTURE WITH A MESSAGE OF STRENGTH AND INSPIRATION

Alessandra Prato and Camilla Reggio, AKU ambassadors, are ready to leave on August 7, 2024 for their first mountaineering expedition in Kyrgyzstan with AKU among the sponsors.
A particular destination, dictated by the desire to explore new lands and rocks. In the Central Asian country, which is located along the Silk Road, other strong mountaineers have passed through, but they have left very little information. Exploration will be the key word of Alessandra and Camilla's expedition.
The ambassadors want to immerse themselves in the remote lands of the Ak-Su Valley and the Kara-Su Valley, tune into mysterious mountains, repeat existing routes, but above all explore new lines. "We will set off with a heavy backpack and a light heart"

  • Alessandra Prato

    AKU Ambassador and astrophysicist animated by an unstoppable enthusiasm for new adventures. Free spirit and member of the CAI Eagle Team.

  • Camilla Reggio

    AKU Ambassador and PhD student in Bioengineering with a passion for climbing, exploration and skiing. Member of the CAI Eagle Team, but above all with a visceral passion for the Mountain.

Photo credits: @ OpenCircle and CAI - Italian Alpine Club

La prima spedizione non si scorda mai

il giorno prima di partire ho mollato il lavoro, sono partita con la testa per aria e con l’idea di spegnere il cervello e sparire dal mondo perdendomi tra remote montagne misteriose. Naturalmente in compagnia dell’unica persona con cui avrei potuto condividere un’esperienza e una passione così forte: la mia amica Cami.

Insieme ci siamo immerse in una valle incantata e abbiamo vissuto un’esperienza ai confini della realtà: un mese a scoprire nuove pareti, a esplorare culture e luoghi stranieri, a scalare linee pazzesche, a chiodare e trapanare vie inesplorate. Un mese in una piccola tenda a parlare della vita, a ridere e scherzare, ma anche a piangere e soffrire. Un mese da sole, unite dal nostro entusiasmo e dalla nostra amicizia, ma anche in compagnia di cavalli selvaggi, pastori armati di fucile e personaggi strampalati da tutto il mondo. Un mese a farci coraggio per lavarci un poco nel gelido fiume, a farci coraggio per caricarci sacconi da cento chili e assediare la Nostra parete, a farci coraggio per passare la notte nella Nostra grottina sotto l’alluvione o le raffiche di vento a mille nodi. 

Sono successe così tante cose che non so quanto tempo ci metterò a metabolizzarle tutte. Di una cosa sono certa: questa esperienza ha arricchito notevolmente il mio curriculum vitae, ed è soltanto l’inizio.

Del Kyrgyzstan mi rimarrà impresso

il ricordo indelebile della nostra via, la gioia di aver lasciato un segno in un luogo remoto tra panorami di montagne a perdita d’occhio. Non rimarranno solo i luoghi ma anche la bellezza dei legami creati al campo base. L’attesa del sole e del suo calore mattutino sono impregnati nei miei ricordi dell’odore del caffè degli amici brasiliani conosciuti al campo base.

L’immensa pietraia che abbiamo percorso nell’Ak-Su Valley non esisterebbe se non accompagnata dall’incredibile capacità di Mishia di scovarci in quel labirinto di massi. Non esisterebbe quella giornata di arrampicata senza la grinta straordinaria di Ale che nonostante non fosse al meglio, mi disse: "Andiamo su, tentiamo Perestrojka".
Non esistono nei miei ricordi le pareti verticali, quasi infinite, senza i miei sogni folli di scalarle tutte e la voglia di aprire nuove vie ovunque guardassi. 

Ora che sono tornata a casa, il Kyrgyzstan mi resta addosso, soprattutto in quei sogni che continuano a tornare a farmi visita qualche notte. Forse non tutti si realizzeranno, ma è in quella magica valle che sono nati e lì potranno, forse un giorno, realizzarsi.

AKU believes in Alessandra and Camilla's project and supports them as sponsors.

Alessandra and Camilla bond with rope, dreams and ideas for the first time during the CAI Eagle Team project. After several rock and ice routes, talking on their return from the mountain, the Kyrgyzstan project materialises. It is their first expedition.

«We are two young mountaineers : extremely motivated, hyperactive, dreamers, disorganized, rebellious, perhaps not very wise, with extremely changeable life plans, but with a great and firm conviction: the passion for the Mountains».

AKU immediately believes in Alessandra and Camilla's project and supports it. A mountaineering expedition as light as their hearts that also has the goal of discovering new places and people, cultures and natural environments and the desire to shout a strong social message:

"We are leaving alone, independently, our thoughts go to all the young women who are passionate about mountains and climbing like us. To them we want to say: " Have the courage to know yourselves , to form a group, get ready and leave. Have faith in yourselves, believe in your dreams. And above all, help us stop being complimented just because we are girls"».

AKU footwear by Alessandra and Camilla

  • FLYROCK GTX

    Fast hiking and dynamic activity shoe, suitable for off-road adventures where traction, protection and high cushioning are required. The Vibram Traction Lugs with Megagrip sole offers surprising grip and cushioning.

    Alessandra and Camilla will use them for the approach trek to the walls.

  • VIAZ DFS GTX Ws

    It redefines a new standard of multipurpose footwear for technical and fast mountaineering. It uses Dynamic Fit technology to dynamically adapt the heel tension to your stride, the Vibram sole offers stability and precision, even in the most technical passages.

    The product to use when greater lightness and dynamism are required..

  • Croda DFS GTX WS Nero-Turchese - AKU®

    CRODA DFS GTX Ws

    Lightweight, agile, precise and extremely comfortable. CRODA DFS GTX is a mountaineering shoe ideal for challenging climbing and trekking in mixed environments with rock and ice.

    They will support our ambassadors in the most complex phases of the climb.

Daily Diary

  • 7. Messy dreamers

    I set off for the last pitch, halfway up Ale shouts that it's late, to place the belay and descend. But there I turned off my brain, I wanted to get up, even if I was tired, even if it was late... in the end I see it: the precarious peg of Ulug, the route that runs alongside ours, that for us was the finish line. I place a bolt and with a heart full of joy we begin the descents to avoid the advancing darkness. At the last descent, shouts of happiness resound in the valley: Ale and I made it! I'm happy to have climbed our route, in that remote corner of the world, surrounded by immense walls that make you dream. I'm happy to have done it with Ale: being friends with a common goal meant that in times of need we were always there for each other, overcoming our limits, physical and mental. Ale and I experience the climb dreaming of these vertical, mysterious and fascinating walls. However, we are always ready to seize the opportunity for different adventures. It seems that we do everything in a chaotic and disorderly way, but after all we follow the flow and the passing of life, never ordered or schematic, but free and in continuous evolution.

  • 6. Beyond the wall: a new route

    We decide to climb in the early afternoon with a vague risk of rain, we have been wanting to climb for days and so, despite the risk, we go! From the start it is clear that nothing will come of it and so we hide in the cave. During dinner thunder worries us and in no time an incessant rain arrives, a bomb of water. The wall in front of us is covered with waterfalls mixed with debris. We can't do anything, getting out of there is worse. The colouir from where we had climbed has become a mousetrap, with no escape route. We patiently waited and towards late evening it stops raining leaving us with the hope of being able to complete our little dream the following day. We set off around 7.00 and climb all the pitches trying to free climb, even if with poor results for the key pitch. We open two more pitches and the objective is nearby: not the actual summit of Peak 3850 m, but a pre-summit of the mountain.

  • 5. Beyond the wall: a new route

    The continuation of the route turns out to be longer than expected. The following day we are still up and we manage to advance to the 4th pitch where we find a solution by traversing to the right on exposed but well-secured passages: straight ones were not possible! We bivouac on the wall in a natural cave but in the morning climbing with an upset stomach is not the best thing in life… Unfortunately we put aside the ethics of free climbing and to continue we use aid on a few points: this is also Kyrgyzstan! The third day on the wall welcomes us with uncertain weather and we prefer to go down to base camp and attempt to close the route at the first window of good weather.

  • 4. Beyond the wall: a new route

    After settling into this magical valley we feel ready to start our project. We start to scan all the mountains, right and left side, from the long approaches to the short ones. We glimpse a wall, hidden by a buttress in front and a waterfall. With our backpacks on, the next morning we set off full of energy. The sun is beating down hot and after about three hours we are in front of the base of the wall: here we find a line, you can't go back down and then start over again, right? We play it by chance: it's Ale's turn to start and he chooses an attack with thin cracks, very nice. I start and do the second, not difficult, it takes us to a large ledge where we decide to leave the material and go down to the base camp and then return the next day with food and bivouac material. By now the die is cast, we are concentrated and focused on our project: to live an adventure that is only ours and leave our mark on this beautiful valley.

  • 3. Traveling to Ak-Su Valley

    The next morning it is already time to leave. After a long journey by jeep between military checks and continuous stops to cool the engine we reach the end of the road: beyond only on horseback. We understand that comfort is a relative concept when our “pillows” are left in the cars… The long caravan finally decides to leave for a six-hour approach through spectacular gorges and mountain landscapes. They are “our mountains", they are the reason why we are here and we can't wait to be able to climb those enormous walls that seem compact and without weak points. Arriving at the base camp we find an environment full of other climbers with whom we will share impressions, tiredness, victories and defeats: the good time of adventure has arrived.

  • 2. It's just the beginning

    At the first light of dawn, tired and with few hours of sleep behind us as always happens on intercontinental flights, we landed in Bishkek , the capital of Kyrgyzstan.
    Our driver, accompanied by a twelve year old boy, speaks only Russian, we immediately adapted to make ourselves understood with gestures and a few words of English . The journey to our guest house winds through barren deserts and villages of miserable shacks. Finally a stop, we park and stretch our legs: it's nice to breathe different air thousands of kilometers from home . We set off again with a new driver: the boy has taken the wheel confidently and happily. Ale and I look at each other in amazement but everything goes smoothly and we arrive "home" safe and sound. A kind woman welcomes us and, following Muslim customs , makes us comfortable in her house offering us one of the first Kyrgyz meals: peanuts, yogurt and vegetables, in a welcoming home, all covered with soft carpets. We are ready for tomorrow!

  • 1. Are you all set?!

    After days of intense preparations including packing, testing AKU footwear - and a run home for what had been forgotten - Alessandra and Camilla are finally flying towards the great Adventure in Kyrgyzstan! Ready to explore the valleys and peaks of the Asian country, pushing their AKUs to the limit.

  • Alexandra

    Alessandra with CRODA DFS GTX, the footwear provided by AKU for the expedition. CRODA DFS GTX is a mountaineering shoe ideal for climbing and challenging trekking in mixed environments with rock and ice, perfect for the objectives of the expedition.

  • Camilla

    To prepare for Kyrgyzstan, Camilla is opening new routes in the Alps and testing the CRODA DFS GTX that she will take on the expedition. The sole of the CRODA DFS GTX is created specifically by Vibram: Croda Litebase offers stability, grip and precision, even in the most technical passages, and allows the use of traditional or semi-automatic crampons.