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Peter Moser's great journey through the Pale di San Martino, in the legend of mountaineering

The day on that 10 August 2021 for Peter Moser starts very early. It was the middle of the night when he set off from San Martino di Castrozza; with the headlamp in his head, he climbed towards the Bolver-Lugli ferrata and before the sun went down, he was on the summit of the Piz de Sagron, which he had reached after having climbed the Cimon della Pala, the Pala di San Martino, the Cima Canali, Sass Maor and Sass d'Ortiga. All in one breath.

Peter Moser

Mountaineer, mountain guide and mountain athlete, he was called to join the High Mountain Military Group of the Army Sports Centre as an athlete, enhancing his athletic and mountaineering training in climbing and ski mountaineering.

His CV includes repeats of sport routes even higher than 8c, ascents to the Great North, hundreds of routes in the Dolomites and throughout the Alps, numerous first ascents on both rock and ice.

Pioneers is the AKU film that brings modern mountaineering into dialogue with its origins

Inspired by the pioneers of mountaineering, Peter concatenated six of the main peaks of the Pale di San Martino in a single day, following the historic routes of the first climbers. A confrontation on equal terms with the mountain, fast but without haste, an intimate journey that Peter wanted to make in order to get to the roots of mountaineering and of his being a mountaineer and mountain guide, where exploration and amazement for nature are still possible. The same desire for exploration that drove the first English mountaineers to climb the Pale, accompanied by hunters and mountaineers from Primiero, which the film evokes through one of the most legendary roped parties in the history of mountaineering. Mariano Lott and Antonio Zagonel, both alpine guides of the Aquile di San Martino and Primiero, play the roles of two historical Primiero guides, Michele Bettega and Bortolo Zagonel, while the English client Beatrice Thomasson is played with elegance and British aplomb by Petra Lott.

Pioneers

A film by Alessandro Beltrame; Screenplay by Roberta Orsenigo; Idea and story by Teddy Soppelsa.

With the participation of
Peter Moser, Maurizio Zanolla “Manolo”, Luciano Gadenz, Mariano Lott (Michele Bettega), Antonio Zagonel “Cobra” (Bortolo Zagonel), Petra Lott (Beatrice Thomasson), Mara Iagher (manager of the Treviso Refuge).

3D Graphics by Diego Boffelli; Photography by Alessandro Beltrame; Production Assistants: Simone Caviglia, Ada De Matteo; Mountain Logistics: Flavio Beber, Fabrizio Dellai “Bicio”; Production: AGB Studio Video – agbvideo.com.

Thank you
Carla Scalet, Maurizio Toffol, Manuel Corso, Jenni Zagonel, Roberta Secco
“Zorro”.

Special thanks to
Alpine Guides Group Eagles of San Martino and Primiero.

A project by AKU in collaboration with
APT San Martino di Castrozza-Rolle Pass-Primiero and Vanoi;
Vibram.

From John Ball to Peter Moser

Shortly after the middle of the 19th century, when the first English travellers saw the Pale di San Martino, they were struck by the beauty of this Dolomite group whose peaks were largely still to be climbed. From that moment on, the race to conquer them began. The first to be reached, in 1870, was the Cimon della Pala (3184 m), defined by John Ball as the Cervino of the Dolomites. Soon afterwards, it was the turn of Sass Maor, Pala di San Martino, Cima Canali, and before the century of great revolutions was over, all the main peaks of the Pale had been reached. Guiding those aristocratic mountaineers up to the peaks were peasants and hunters from Primiero who, although driven by different interests, formed legendary roped parties that have made mountaineering history.

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PETER'S PEAKS

On 10 August 2021 Peter Moser set off at night from San Martino di Castrozza and reached the following summits before sunset: Cimon della Pala (3184 m) along the normal south-eastern route (first ascent: in 1870 by Edward Robson Whitwell, Christian Lauener with guide Santo Siorpaes); Pala di San Martino (2982 m) along the normal north-western route (first ascent in 1878 by Julius Meurer, Alfredo Pallavicini, with the guides Michele Bettega, Arcangelo Dimai and Santo Siorpaes); Cima Canali (2900 m) along the north-west corner with the crossing of the ridges (first ascent in 1879 by Charles Comyns Tucker with the guide Michele Bettega); Sass Maor (2812 m) along the normal south-eastern route (first ascent: in 1875 by Henry Awdry Beachcroft, Charles Comyns Tucker, with the guides Francois Devoassoud and Giovanni Battista Della Santa); Sass d'Ortiga (2631 m) along the western edge (first ascent in 1892 by Demeter Diamantidi and Peter Kotter with Giuseppe Zecchini); Piz de Sagrón (2486 m) for the northern and southern slopes (first ascent: in 1877 by Cesare Tomè, Tommaso Da Col and the guide Mariano Bernardin ‘Gabiàn’).

Pioneers is the great journey of Peter Moser - on 10 August 2021 he reached 6 of the main peaks of the Pale di San Martino (Dolomites) - following the routes opened by the first mountaineers at the beginning of the 19th century -

The Footwear of the Crossing

AKU Rock DFS GTX

Peter Moser's traveling partner on this great journey through the Pale di San Martino were the AKU Rock DFS GTX .

A technical approach and lightweight climbing shoe, which Peter Moser helped design, ideal for moving quickly on trails and extremely precise and comfortable during all climbing sections.

AKU Rock DFS GTX is light , comfortable and practical together with the rigidity necessary for climbing sections, thanks to the toe with Climbing Zone . The double lacing makes Rock DFS GTX more adherent to the foot and therefore more precise even on small holds.

From the Trento Film Festival to many awards

Pioneers was chosen along with over 130 films selected at the 71st edition of the Trento Film Festival.

Starting from the Deutscher Alpenverein Award for best mountain film at the Tegernsee International Mountain Film Festival, to the Jury Prize at the Poprad Mountain Film Festival in Slovakia, which chose it from 56 films in competition, coming from 15 countries , to date Pionieri has collected over 20 awards in as many international festivals, where the public has been able to admire the spectacular images of Peter Moser and the Pale di San Martino.

In the footsteps of Peter Moser

Watch the Komoot track of the Pioneers crossing, on AKU channel