GR54 – Wielka wycieczka po Ecrins

The Tour des Écrins, also known as the GR54, is one of the most challenging and spectacular hiking routes in the French Alps. This route winds around the Écrins massif, in the heart of the Écrins National Park, located in the Isère and Hautes-Alpes regions. With a length of approximately 190 km and a total elevation gain of over 12,000 metres, the GR54 is considered one of the toughest treks in the Alps, often compared to the Tour du Mont Blanc for its beauty and difficulty.

We started from Monêtier-les-Bains and followed the Tour des Écrins clockwise, choosing to sleep in a tent for most of the route, given the difficulty of finding a place in the refuges due to the crowds on August 15th. The first two days we followed the official stages to acclimatize to trekking and accustom our legs and body to the daily effort, taking advantage of perfect weather.

We set off from Monêtier-les-Bains and followed the Tour des Écrins clockwise, choosing to sleep in tents for most of the route, given the difficulty of finding space in the refuges due to the crowds on August 15th.
The first two days we followed the official stages to acclimatize to the trek and accustom our legs and body to the daily effort , taking advantage of perfect weather.

On the third day , feeling fit, we decided to combine two stages into one: from Cabane de Jas Lacroix to Lac du Vallonpierre, covering about 26 km with almost 2,000 meters of elevation gain. I had never tackled such an elevation gain with low shoes, but the AKU Rocket DFS GTX proved to be excellent . Thanks to the Dual Fit System, I was able to adapt the fit to better manage the steep descents, avoiding blisters or calluses. We arrived exhausted after 7:00 pm, and after a well-deserved beer and a hearty dinner, we started to set up the tent, but the weather got complicated with lightning and thunder. With no places available at the refuge, we spent the night in the tent under an incessant storm.

At dawn on the fourth day the weather calmed down and we took advantage of the beautiful day to combine two stages again, reaching the characteristic village of Désert en Valjouffrey . In the following days we maintained a good pace without particular difficulties until the seventh day , when the weather changed abruptly. The forecast forced us to opt for the variant C of our GR54 and we reached Venosc to spend the night in a campsite, where we finally did the laundry and treated ourselves to a pizza (which, it must be said, we make better in Italy).

Even in rainy and muddy conditions, the AKU Rocket DFS GTX kept our feet dry, proving once again their reliability. The next day we took a “zero-day” in Les Deux Alpes , a non-trekking break where we stocked up on supplies. Despite our low mood due to the bad weather, the forecast gave us hope. The next morning, under a finally clear sky, we set off again towards the Col du Souchet, on the Emparis plateau , where we found the most beautiful tent spot of the entire trip: a breathtaking sunset with low clouds and orange-colored mountains.

DURATION: The complete trek takes between 10 and 13 days, depending on the pace and physical condition of the walker.

DIFFICULTY: The route is classified as very difficult. The stages include long ascents and descents, often on rocky and steep terrain, with some passes exceeding 2,600 meters in altitude.

HIGHLIGHTS: The passes over the Col de la Muzelle, Col d'Arsine, and Col du Souchet offer breathtaking panoramic views of snow-capped peaks, glaciers, and wild Alpine valleys. The route passes through traditional villages such as La Grave, Vallouise, and Monêtier-les-Bains, offering a taste of Alpine architecture and local culture.

The Écrins National Park is known for its biodiversity. During the trek you can spot: ibex, chamois, marmots and, with a bit of luck, the golden eagle. The flora includes a wide range of alpine flowers, including edelweiss, gentian and rhododendrons, which color the landscapes during the summer.

Along the route, trekkers can stay overnight in a well-organized network of mountain huts, gîtes d'étape, and campsites. These huts offer rustic hospitality, with hot meals and the opportunity to share experiences with other hikers. It is essential to book in advance, especially during the high summer months (July and August).

The best time to tackle the GR54 is from late June to mid-September, when the trails are free of snow and the weather conditions are more stable. However, even in summer, the weather can change quickly, with the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms, so it is essential to be well equipped.

Day 1 - Monêtier-les-Bains - Col du Frejus

Day 2 - Col du Frejus - Vallouise - Jas Lacroix hut

Day 3 - Jas Lacroix Hut - Vallonpierre Lake

Day 4 - Vallonpierre Lake - La Chapelle en Valgaudemar

Day 5 - La Chapelle en Valgaudemar - Refuge Souffles - Désert en Valjouffrey

Day 6 - Désert en Valjouffrey - Valsenestre

Day 7 - Valsenestre - Col de la Muzelle - Venosc

Day 8 - Venosc - le Deux Alpes (variant C)

Day 9 - the Deux Alpes - Col du Souchet (variant C)

Day 10 - Col du Souchet - Col d'Arsine

Day 11 - Col d'Arsine - Monêtier-les-Bains