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AKU-BOTSCHAFTER AUF EXPEDITION NACH KIRGISISTAN

EIN ALPINES ABENTEUER MIT EINER BOTSCHAFT VON STÄRKE UND INSPIRATION

Alessandra Prato und Camilla Reggio , AKU-Botschafter , sind bereit, am 7. August 2024 zu ihrer ersten Bergsteigerexpedition nach Kirgisistan aufzubrechen, wobei AKU zu den Sponsoren des Projekts gehört.
Ein besonderes Reiseziel, das von dem Wunsch bestimmt wird, neue Länder und Felsen zu erkunden. Andere starke Bergsteiger haben das zentralasiatische Land, das an der Seidenstraße liegt, durchquert und nur sehr wenige Informationen hinterlassen. Erkundung wird daher das Schlüsselwort der Expedition von Alessandra und Camilla sein.
Die Absicht besteht darin, in die abgelegenen Gebiete des Ak-Su-Tals und des Kara-Su-Tals einzutauchen und sich zu isolieren, sich auf geheimnisvolle Berge einzustimmen, bestehende Routen zu wiederholen, aber vor allem neue Linien zu erkunden : „ Wir werden mit einem aufbrechen.schwerer Rucksack und leichtes Herz .

  • Alessandra Prato

    AKU-Botschafter und Astrophysiker, beseelt von einer unbestreitbaren Begeisterung für neue Abenteuer. Freigeist und Mitglied des CAI Eagle Teams .

  • Camilla Reggio

    AKU-Botschafter und Doktorand im Bioingenieurwesen mit einer Leidenschaft für Klettern, Erkunden und Skifahren. Mitglied des CAI Eagle Teams , aber vor allem mit einer leidenschaftlichen Leidenschaft für die Berge.

Photo credits: @ OpenCircle and CAI - Italian Alpine Club

La prima spedizione non si scorda mai

il giorno prima di partire ho mollato il lavoro, sono partita con la testa per aria e con l’idea di spegnere il cervello e sparire dal mondo perdendomi tra remote montagne misteriose. Naturalmente in compagnia dell’unica persona con cui avrei potuto condividere un’esperienza e una passione così forte: la mia amica Cami.

Insieme ci siamo immerse in una valle incantata e abbiamo vissuto un’esperienza ai confini della realtà: un mese a scoprire nuove pareti, a esplorare culture e luoghi stranieri, a scalare linee pazzesche, a chiodare e trapanare vie inesplorate. Un mese in una piccola tenda a parlare della vita, a ridere e scherzare, ma anche a piangere e soffrire. Un mese da sole, unite dal nostro entusiasmo e dalla nostra amicizia, ma anche in compagnia di cavalli selvaggi, pastori armati di fucile e personaggi strampalati da tutto il mondo. Un mese a farci coraggio per lavarci un poco nel gelido fiume, a farci coraggio per caricarci sacconi da cento chili e assediare la Nostra parete, a farci coraggio per passare la notte nella Nostra grottina sotto l’alluvione o le raffiche di vento a mille nodi. 

Sono successe così tante cose che non so quanto tempo ci metterò a metabolizzarle tutte. Di una cosa sono certa: questa esperienza ha arricchito notevolmente il mio curriculum vitae, ed è soltanto l’inizio.

Del Kyrgyzstan mi rimarrà impresso

il ricordo indelebile della nostra via, la gioia di aver lasciato un segno in un luogo remoto tra panorami di montagne a perdita d’occhio. Non rimarranno solo i luoghi ma anche la bellezza dei legami creati al campo base. L’attesa del sole e del suo calore mattutino sono impregnati nei miei ricordi dell’odore del caffè degli amici brasiliani conosciuti al campo base.

L’immensa pietraia che abbiamo percorso nell’Ak-Su Valley non esisterebbe se non accompagnata dall’incredibile capacità di Mishia di scovarci in quel labirinto di massi. Non esisterebbe quella giornata di arrampicata senza la grinta straordinaria di Ale che nonostante non fosse al meglio, mi disse: "Andiamo su, tentiamo Perestrojka".
Non esistono nei miei ricordi le pareti verticali, quasi infinite, senza i miei sogni folli di scalarle tutte e la voglia di aprire nuove vie ovunque guardassi. 

Ora che sono tornata a casa, il Kyrgyzstan mi resta addosso, soprattutto in quei sogni che continuano a tornare a farmi visita qualche notte. Forse non tutti si realizzeranno, ma è in quella magica valle che sono nati e lì potranno, forse un giorno, realizzarsi.

AKU glaubt an das Projekt von Alessandra und Camilla und unterstützt sie als Sponsoren

Während des CAI Eagle Team-Projekts verbinden sich Alessandra und Camilla zum ersten Mal mit Seilen, Träumen und Ideen. Nach mehreren Fels- und Eisrouten erscheint auf dem Rückweg vom Berg das Kirgisistan- Projekt, ihre erste Expedition.

„Wir sind zwei junge Bergsteiger : extrem motiviert , hyperaktiv, Träumer , unordentlich, rebellisch , vielleicht nicht sehr vernünftig, mit äußerst wechselhaften Lebensentwürfen, aber mit einer großen und festen Überzeugung, die die Leidenschaft für die Berge ist .“

AKU glaubte sofort an das Projekt von Alessandra und Camilla und unterstützte es. Eine Bergsteigerexpedition, so leicht wie ihr Herz , deren Ziel auch das Kennenlernen neuer Orte ist und Menschen, Kulturen und natürliche Umgebungen sowie der Wunsch, eine starke soziale Botschaft zu senden:

„Wir gehen in Ruhe, unabhängig , unsere Gedanken sind bei allen jungen Frauen, die wie wir eine Leidenschaft für Berge und Klettern haben.“ Wir möchten ihnen sagen: „ Haben Sie den Mut, sich kennenzulernen , eine Gruppe zu bilden, machen Sie sich bereit und gehen Sie.“ Vertraue dir selbst, glaube an deine Träume . Und vor allem hilf uns, uns keine Komplimente mehr zu machen, nur weil wir Mädchen sind .

Die AKU-Schuhe von Alessandra und Camilla

  • FLYROCK GTX

    Schneller Wanderschuh für dynamische Aktivitäten, geeignet für Offroad-Abenteuer, bei denen Traktion, Schutz und hohe Dämpfung erforderlich sind. Die Vibram Traction Lugs-Sohle mit Megagrip bietet erstaunlichen Grip und Dämpfung.

    Alessandra und Camilla werden sie für die Wanderung zu den Mauern nutzen.

  • VIAZ DFS GTX Ws

    Es definiert einen neuen Standard für Mehrzweckschuhe für technisches und schnelles Bergsteigen. Mithilfe der Dynamic Fit-Technologie passt sich die Spannung der Ferse dynamisch an Ihren Schritt an. Die Vibram-Sohle bietet Stabilität und Präzision auch in den technisch anspruchsvollsten Passagen.

    Der Joker zum Spielen, wenn mehr Leichtigkeit und Dynamik gefragt sind.

  • Croda DFS GTX WS Nero-Turchese - AKU®

    CRODA DFS GTX Ws

    Leicht, wendig, präzise und äußerst komfortabel. CRODA DFS GTX ist ein Bergsteigerschuh, der sich ideal für anspruchsvolles Klettern und Trekking in gemischten Umgebungen mit Fels und Eis eignet.

    Sie werden unsere Botschafter in den komplexesten Phasen des Aufstiegs unterstützen.

Tägliches Tagebuch

  • 7. Messy dreamers

    I set off for the last pitch, halfway up Ale shouts that it's late, to place the belay and descend. But there I turned off my brain, I wanted to get up, even if I was tired, even if it was late... in the end I see it: the precarious peg of Ulug, the route that runs alongside ours, that for us was the finish line. I place a bolt and with a heart full of joy we begin the descents to avoid the advancing darkness. At the last descent, shouts of happiness resound in the valley: Ale and I made it! I'm happy to have climbed our route, in that remote corner of the world, surrounded by immense walls that make you dream. I'm happy to have done it with Ale: being friends with a common goal meant that in times of need we were always there for each other, overcoming our limits, physical and mental. Ale and I experience the climb dreaming of these vertical, mysterious and fascinating walls. However, we are always ready to seize the opportunity for different adventures. It seems that we do everything in a chaotic and disorderly way, but after all we follow the flow and the passing of life, never ordered or schematic, but free and in continuous evolution.

  • 6. Beyond the wall: a new route

    We decide to climb in the early afternoon with a vague risk of rain, we have been wanting to climb for days and so, despite the risk, we go! From the start it is clear that nothing will come of it and so we hide in the cave. During dinner thunder worries us and in no time an incessant rain arrives, a bomb of water. The wall in front of us is covered with waterfalls mixed with debris. We can't do anything, getting out of there is worse. The colouir from where we had climbed has become a mousetrap, with no escape route. We patiently waited and towards late evening it stops raining leaving us with the hope of being able to complete our little dream the following day. We set off around 7.00 and climb all the pitches trying to free climb, even if with poor results for the key pitch. We open two more pitches and the objective is nearby: not the actual summit of Peak 3850 m, but a pre-summit of the mountain.

  • 5. Beyond the wall: a new route

    The continuation of the route turns out to be longer than expected. The following day we are still up and we manage to advance to the 4th pitch where we find a solution by traversing to the right on exposed but well-secured passages: straight ones were not possible! We bivouac on the wall in a natural cave but in the morning climbing with an upset stomach is not the best thing in life… Unfortunately we put aside the ethics of free climbing and to continue we use aid on a few points: this is also Kyrgyzstan! The third day on the wall welcomes us with uncertain weather and we prefer to go down to base camp and attempt to close the route at the first window of good weather.

  • 4. Beyond the wall: a new route

    After settling into this magical valley we feel ready to start our project. We start to scan all the mountains, right and left side, from the long approaches to the short ones. We glimpse a wall, hidden by a buttress in front and a waterfall. With our backpacks on, the next morning we set off full of energy. The sun is beating down hot and after about three hours we are in front of the base of the wall: here we find a line, you can't go back down and then start over again, right? We play it by chance: it's Ale's turn to start and he chooses an attack with thin cracks, very nice. I start and do the second, not difficult, it takes us to a large ledge where we decide to leave the material and go down to the base camp and then return the next day with food and bivouac material. By now the die is cast, we are concentrated and focused on our project: to live an adventure that is only ours and leave our mark on this beautiful valley.

  • 3. Traveling to Ak-Su Valley

    The next morning it is already time to leave. After a long journey by jeep between military checks and continuous stops to cool the engine we reach the end of the road: beyond only on horseback. We understand that comfort is a relative concept when our “pillows” are left in the cars… The long caravan finally decides to leave for a six-hour approach through spectacular gorges and mountain landscapes. They are “our mountains", they are the reason why we are here and we can't wait to be able to climb those enormous walls that seem compact and without weak points. Arriving at the base camp we find an environment full of other climbers with whom we will share impressions, tiredness, victories and defeats: the good time of adventure has arrived.

  • 2. It's just the beginning

    At the first light of dawn, tired and with few hours of sleep behind us as always happens on intercontinental flights, we landed in Bishkek , the capital of Kyrgyzstan.
    Our driver, accompanied by a twelve year old boy, speaks only Russian, we immediately adapted to make ourselves understood with gestures and a few words of English . The journey to our guest house winds through barren deserts and villages of miserable shacks. Finally a stop, we park and stretch our legs: it's nice to breathe different air thousands of kilometers from home . We set off again with a new driver: the boy has taken the wheel confidently and happily. Ale and I look at each other in amazement but everything goes smoothly and we arrive "home" safe and sound. A kind woman welcomes us and, following Muslim customs , makes us comfortable in her house offering us one of the first Kyrgyz meals: peanuts, yogurt and vegetables, in a welcoming home, all covered with soft carpets. We are ready for tomorrow!

  • 1. Are you all set?!

    After days of intense preparations including packing, testing AKU footwear - and a run home for what had been forgotten - Alessandra and Camilla are finally flying towards the great Adventure in Kyrgyzstan! Ready to explore the valleys and peaks of the Asian country, pushing their AKUs to the limit.

  • Alexandra

    Alessandra mit CRODA DFS GTX, dem von AKU für den Versand gelieferten Schuhwerk. CRODA DFS GTX ist ein idealer Bergsteigerschuh für anspruchsvolles Klettern und Trekking in einer gemischten Umgebung mit Fels und Eis, perfekt für die Ziele der Expedition.

  • Camilla

    Um sich auf Kirgisistan vorzubereiten, eröffnet Camilla neue Routen in den Alpen und testet den CRODA DFS GTX, den sie auf die Expedition mitbringen wird. Die CRODA DFS GTX-Sohle wurde speziell von Vibram entwickelt: Croda Litebase bietet Stabilität, Grip und Präzision auch in den technisch anspruchsvollsten Passagen und ermöglicht die Verwendung traditioneller oder halbautomatischer Steigeisen.